The Inselberg Backpack Pattern

Posted on June 8, 2020 by February Sky Designs

I’m new to hiking, and one of the first things I realized I needed (besides bug spray!), was a bag to keep my hands free and hold the essentials. I didn’t want a full-size backpack, but it needed to be big enough for a water bottle and snacks. I figured I could make a bag that would check all the boxes, and that’s how the Inselberg backpack was created!

Having taken it out on the trails a few times now I can attest that it’s the perfect size to carry all the essentials, and the color possibilities are endless! Using Caron Cotton Cakes yarn and holding two strands together creates a durable and structured bag that’s still lightweight and won’t slow you down. Read on to see how to make your own Inselberg Backpack, and become the outdoorsy person you’ve always wanted to be! (And still have cute accessories.)

Inselberg Backpack Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Skip (SK)

-Stitch (ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Two Single Crochet (2SC)

Materials:

J/10 (6 mm) Crochet Hook
I/9 (5.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Two skeins worsted weight level 4 yarn, 100% cotton or a cotton/acrylic blend, about 300 yards each. (Different colors are optional. Pictured is Caron Cotton Cakes in Silver Cloud and Fruit Tropical.)

Notes:

The Inselberg Backpack is made by holding two strands of yarn together simultaneously to create a stronger structure.
The rounds are joined by an invisible slip stitch and each round is started with a chainless single crochet, which counts as one SC. If you’re not familiar with these techniques you can see a more detailed tutorial here or use a standard slip stitch and chain 1 at the beginning of each row, which will not count as a stitch.
The chart below shows how to make the bag base. The instructions are also written out in the pattern directions with accompanying photos. The body of the bag is made in joined rows without any increases.
The oval base can be thought of as two half circles on either end of a rectangle. The middle of the rectangle will always be 11 SC’s, which is why they are written out separately in the pattern instructions to help keep track of where the increases go.
The colors of the bag are entirely up to you! I joined the Fruit Tropical yarn a couple rows above the base and then re-joined the Silver Cloud yarn at the top, but your version can be whatever you’d like!

Techniques used:

-Invisible Slip Stitch – Photo Instructions here.

-Chainless SC – Photo Instructions here.

-Crochet I-cord – Instructions by Yarnspirations

-Thermal Stitch – Youtube video by Sewrella

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Base:

CH 14.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in the next 11 CH’s. 3SC in final CH. Turn, SC in the bottom CH strand of the next 11 CH’s. 2SC in last CH. Join to 1st SC of round with an invisible SL ST (see notes). (28 ST)

R2: 2SC, SC 11, 2SC in the next 3 ST, SC 11, 2SC in the next 2 ST, join. (34 ST)

R3: 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, join. (40 ST)

R4: SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, join. (46 ST)

R5: 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, join. (52 ST)

R6: SC 3, 2 SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, join. (58 ST)

R7: SC, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 4, join. (64 ST)

R8: SC 5, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 1, join. (70 ST)

Body:

R9-41: SC around. (70 ST)

R42: SC 3, CH 1, SK 1, *SC 6, CH 1, SK 1*, repeat from * to * 6 times, SC 3, join. (70 ST)

R43: SC around in all SC’s and CH spaces. (70 ST)

R44: SC around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (70 ST)

I-cord:

Using 1 strand of yarn and a I/9 5.5mm hook, create an iCord that is 42 inches long. See Techniques for tutorial link.

Weave the I-cord through the CH spaces you made in Round 42, making the ends stick out of the front two holes so you can cinch the bag closed.

If you’d like to make a loop for hanging the bag, make another I-cord that is 6 inches long and attach it to the top back center of the bag body, just below the cinch cord.

STRAPS:

For Thermal Stitch tutorial, see link in Techniques section.

CH 7.

SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (6 ST).

CH 1, turn. SC thermal stitch until strap measures 30 inches (adjust to preference, as it will stretch a bit when used).

Make 2. Attach each strap to the top center of the back under the cord and on either side of the bottom just above the base oval (see photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 11”/28 cm

Height: 11”/28 cm from top of bag to start of base, 14”/36 cm from top of bag to center of base.

I hope you’ll make your own Inselberg backpack to take on all your outdoor activities this summer! If you do, be sure to tag me on Instagram so I can share your work! Happy hiking!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Fairy Fade Throw Blanket

Posted on March 24, 2020 by February Sky Designs

Making a blanket for another person is a special thing to me. Blankets are inherently time-consuming, but when I imagine the recipient wrapping themselves in it and keeping warm I also feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

I think a lot of us are looking for some comforting projects right now, and what better way to use up some of your stash than a beautiful blanket. If you have a stash of fuzzy yarn lying around I suggest this easy and meditative blanket to make something for someone you love (yourself included!).

This blanket is made using bulky yarn (I used Lion Brand Homespun) and is entirely made of half double crochets so it’s very beginner friendly. You can make the color fade as bright or as neutral as you’d like, the possibilities are endless! Just grab 5 colors you like together and a neutral shade to pull them together, like the white I used, and you’re on your way to a beautiful throw blanket.

The Fairy Fade Throw Blanket

Materials:

7 balls (1,295 yards) of bulky weight (level 5) yarn: 5 balls of different colors and 2 balls of a neutral color, like white. Pictured is Lion Brand Homespun in Barrington (Color A), Mixed Berries (Color B), Purple Aster (Color C), Oyster (Color D), Tudor (Color E), Hepplewhite (Color F)
Size N 10 mm crochet hook
Large eye sewing needle
Scissors

Stitch Abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Stitch (ST)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

Size:

50” wide, 60” long

Gauge:

4”x4”= 6 rows x 8 HDC

Notes:

The size of this blanket very customizable. Follow the gauge and increase or decrease the starting chain any number, and continue adding rows in sequence or remove rows to make it larger or smaller.

To make the color changes easier, do not cut the yarn as soon as you reach the white sections. Leave the first color attached while you add the white and complete two rows. When you get back to the colored yarn, bring the yarn up along the side and continue with the next two rows. Do this for the white as well so you only have to join and weave in the ends at the end of each fade section.

Pattern:

CH 100

Row 1: Using Color A, HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook. HDC across (99 ST).

Row 2: CH 1. Turn. HDC across. (99 ST)

Repeat Row 2 for 10 total rows of Color A.

Row 11 and 12: Join Color F and repeat Row 2 for 2 rows. Do not cut yet (see notes).

Repeat row 2 throughout the blanket in the following sequence:

Row 13 and 14: Color A

R 15, 16: Color F

R 17, 18: Color B

R 19, 20: Color F

R 21-30: Color B

R 31, 32: Color F

R 33, 34: Color B

R 35, 36: Color F

R 37, 38: Color C

R 39, 40: Color F

R 41-50: Color C

R 51, 52: Color F

R 53, 54: Color C

R 55, 56: Color F

R 57, 58: Color D

R 59, 60: Color F

R 61, 70: Color D

R 71, 72: Color F

R 73, 74: Color D

R 75, 76: Color F

R 77, 78: Color E

R 79, 80: Color F

R 81-90: Color E

If you make your own Fairy Fade Blanket, be sure to tag me on Instagram! Be well everyone.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Pisces Shawl

Posted on February 20, 2020 by February Sky Designs

I am so excited to introduce the Pisces Shawl! Get the crochet pattern now on my Etsy!

This pattern joins my February Sky Scarf in my February patterns, and this one has a very special place in my heart. It’s my first shawl pattern, and I knew I had to make it perfect- drapey, detailed, and a long triangle shape that works as a wrap or as a cozy scarf. This hits all the marks!

This shawl uses a few different techniques, like double crocheting clusters and triple crocheting into the front post of the previous row. But don’t let that put you off- this pattern is advanced-beginner friendly, and I wrote the row repeats so that once you get a few rows done and understand the repetitions you’ll be able to breeze through this project.

If you are used to only working with worsted weight yarn, this is a great project to try DK weight! It’s a little lighter, but you can still use a larger hook so the shawl has tons of drape and works up quickly. I made two shawls, one in Malabrigo Arroyo yarn (pictured above in “Reflecting Pool” and “Anniversario”) and one using Lion Brand Mandala in Warlock (below).

The pattern is available on my Etsy. I hope you’ll try this pattern! When you do, be sure to tag me on instagram @februaryskydesigns and use the hashtag #piscesshawl!

The Snowy Willow Knit Hat

Posted on December 17, 2019 by February Sky Designs

When I decided to teach myself to knit it felt like a tall mountain to climb. Maybe because I learned to crochet first, but knitting seemed intimidating and finicky. How to hold the needles, how many stitches to cast on, what abbreviations mean, how long it takes compared to crochet- these are all obstacles I had to overcome before I could complete my first wonky hat. But that hat gave me a sense of accomplishment that was addicting, and I went on a knit hat bender, making at least one that I was actually happy with. It turns out that with bulky yarn and big needles a hat doesn’t actually take that long!

So if you have some basic knitting skills and want an easy hat that you can finish in a couple of hours, look no further than the Snowy Willow hat . This beginner-friendly project requires that you’re familiar with knitting, but the color work is all down to the yarn you choose and at the end you’ll have a cozy and pretty hat that you can be proud of (and that makes a great gift!).

I made two versions of the hat- one using two strands of Caron Latte Cakes held together, and one holding Latte Cakes and Simply soft together. Both versions of the hat are ridiculously soft, and depending on the colors you choose and where you pick up the self-striping Latte Cakes yarn you can get some really pretty color changes in your hat, all without changing yarns or having more ends to weave in!

You’ll start off with a long tail cast on using 8mm circular knitting needles, and after joining in the round you’ll make your brim.

The hat brim is a basic rib with alternating knits and purls, and you can make it thicker or thinner by adding or subtracting a couple rows. My brim is about 2 inches after 10 rows.

Once the brim is done you’ll switch to the 9mm needles to make the hat body. This is the quick and easy part as it’s entirely knit stitches, and before you know it you’re ready to finish the hat with a couple rows of decreases!

Below you’ll see the two versions of the hat. The first is made holding two strands of Latte Cakes together and the pom is made of the same yarn, so all you need is one skein to make the whole hat (or two or three hats, as these skeins are huge!). The second hat is made holding Latte Cakes and Simply Soft together and finished with a faux fur pom if you’re feeling a little fancy.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Snowy Willow Knit Hat Pattern

Materials:

-One skein Caron Latte Cakes (colorway shown is Pepper Ash)

-One skein Caron Simply Soft (colorway shown is Off White) (optional)

-8 mm 16 in. circular knitting needles

-9 mm 16 in. circular knitting needles

-9 mm double pointed needles

-large eye sewing needle

-stitch marker

-fur pom (optional)

Notes:

This beanie is made by holding two strands of yarn together. You can choose to either hold one strand of Latte Cakes (a level 5 yarn, but on the thin side) with a strand of Simply Soft, or you can hold two strands of Latte Cakes or two strands of Simply Soft of other worsted weight yarn together. Your finished hat size may vary slightly depending on your yarn and tension.
Techniques you’ll need to know prior to following this pattern are the long tail cast on, joining in the round, the knit stitch, the purl stitch, and knitting two stitches together.
10 rows of ribbing measures about 2 inches, so increase or decrease rows as you prefer.
If adding or subtracting stitches from the initial cast-on to adjust the size of the hat, make sure you keep the total number a multiple of 2.

Pattern:

To begin, hold two strands of yarn and use the 8 mm needles to cast on 56 stitches using the long tail cast on method (or your preferred cast on method). C/o 57 stitches if using the invisible join method, which drops a stitch and ends up with 56 active stitches. Place a stitch marker to assist in counting rows.

Switch to 9 mm needles.

R1-10: *K1, P1* around. (56 sts)

R11 and up: Knit around until hat measures 8” including ribbing.

Decrease row 1: *K1, K2tog*, repeat around.

Decrease R2: Knit around.

*If you have double pointed needles, switch to those now. If not, either continue last two rows with circular needles or thread end through loops now.

Decrease R3: Using DPNs, *K1, K2tog*, evenly distributing stitches on 2 or 3 needles.

Decrease R4: Knit around.

Decrease R5: K2tog. Repeat around. Using a long tail, thread through each loop on the needles, remove needles and pull tight. Attach pom of your choice and weave in ends.

Finished dimensions:

8.5″/21.6 cm wide (at body when flat), 8.5″/21.6 cm in height

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

Posted on December 4, 2019 by February Sky Designs

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

If you’re looking for a full-size version of this pattern (for a tree that’s 5-9 feet), then you’re in luck! I’ve created the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern for big trees, and you can find the free pattern here! I’ve also created the Bauble Tree Skirt Collection that combines both the Mini and Big Bauble patterns in one beautifully formatted, low cost PDF, found on my Etsy here!

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

For the ad-free PDF version of this pattern (which also includes the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern!) click here.

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-About 160 yards of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn

-Size P-15 (12 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When an instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).
The full-size version of this pattern, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, can be found here!

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*. Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

The Braeburn Beanie

Posted on October 4, 2019 by February Sky Designs

There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.

I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Slip Stitch (SL ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)

-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)

Special Stitches:

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch

–Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Note:

A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).

Materials:

-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy

-Size I/9 5.5mm Crochet Hook

-Stitch Markers (optional)

-Sewing Needle

-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)

Final Measurments: 8.5”/22cm wide, 9.5”/24cm tall, 18”/46cm circumference

Pattern:

Beanie Band:

CH 11.

R1: HDC in 2^nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)

R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).

Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 42 rows.

SL ST band edges together.

Beanie Body:

R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (62 SC with a 42 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.

R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, with the last HDCV in the 2nd to last SC. SK last SC and SL ST to the chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV from the previous row. SL ST to the 1st chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

Repeat R3 for 18 rows of HDCV stitches total. (Add a couple more rows for a slouchier beanie or less for a shorter beanie.)

R19: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R20: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R21: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R22: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.

Pull up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s, pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.

That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Posted on June 27, 2019 by February Sky Designs

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
Stitch markers
Scissors
Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2^nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1^st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.

Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.

Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.

Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1^st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1^st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.

Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.

Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.

Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.

Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1^st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1^st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1^st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

Cozy Crochet Plant Hanger

Posted on May 20, 2019 by February Sky Designs

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% free to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cozy little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

You can find a beautifully formatted, 6-page PDF in my Etsy shop with full color pictorials and step by step instructions.

Get your copy here!

If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instagram, @februaryskydesigns and use the hashtag #cozycrochetplanthanger!

Materials:

Bernat Home Dec Yarn, or similar Bulky Level 5 yarn made of cotton/acrylic and nylon.
size N/10 crochet hook
large eye sewing needle
stitch markers
2.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
1.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
large wooden beads (optional)

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 7”

Height (before hanging): 8” (without ring or tassel)

Purchase the ad-free, full color PDF for a few dollars here! Thank you for supporting my work.

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag

Posted on May 7, 2019 by February Sky Designs

I’ve been practicing yoga on and off for the past 10 years. I don’t consider myself a “yogi”, but last year I started an at-home practice using free online yoga videos, and it was honestly one of the best things I did for myself during the hardest year of my life.

Home practice is great, but there’s nothing like a studio class to feel the connection that yoga can create. I crocheted my own mat bag a couple years ago when I started taking classes at a new studio, and I’m really excited to share the pattern with you so you can make your own!

The ritual of yoga is learning balance. I named my bag pattern after the pose “Peaceful Warrior” because that is how I want to live- in a state of calm surrender, strong enough to fight when it’s needed. Yoga can be a lot of things to different people, but at it’s core it is an act of self love. Who doesn’t need more of that in their lives?

This bag is the perfect companion for your studio practice. It’s roomy so you don’t have to struggle to get your mat inside, and it’ll fit your water bottle and wallet with a front pocket for your phone and keys! The colors are endlessly customizable, so have fun making it your own!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag Crochet Pattern

Materials:

8 balls (120 yards each) of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn: 2 balls each of Colors A, B and C; optional small amounts (approx. 13 yards each) of 7 Chakra stripe colors, or 2 more balls of Color D of your choice.
I/9 Crochet Hook
J/10 Crochet Hook
Stitch markers
Measuring tape/ruler
1-inch button
Large Eye sewing needle

Stitch abbreviations:

Chain (CH)
Single Crochet (SC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Slip Stitch (SL ST)

I recommend using recycled cotton yarn. This Re-Up yarn is what I used for the gray section of my bag and it’s really soft and easy to work with.

Pattern:

Note: The bag pictured was made holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. The measurements are based on this method and the hook sizes mentioned.

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color A yarn together and using the size J/10 hook, create a Magic Circle, or CH 4 and SL ST the last CH to the first CH.

Step 2: CH 2, 8 SC into the Magic Circle or the CH 4 circle. SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 3: CH 2, 2 SC in each stitch around (16 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 4: CH 2, *1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (24 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 5: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (32 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 6: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 3 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (40 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 7: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 4 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 8: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 5 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 9: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 6 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (56 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 10: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 7 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (64 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Step 11: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 8 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (72 SC). SL ST to 2^nd CH.

Part 2:

Row 1: CH 3 (counts as a stitch). DC around all SC from previous row, no increases. SL ST to 3rd CH in CH 3.

Rows 2-6: Repeat Row 1 five more times (6 rows of DC of Color A).

Rows 7-15: Change to Color B, repeat Row 1 for 9 rows.

Rows 16-22: Optional Chakra Stripes: 7 more rows, each of a different color corresponding to the 7 chakras: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple. Or change to Color D for 7 rows.

Row 23: Last DC row in Color C.

Strap:

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color C together and using J hook, CH 8. SL ST to 1^st CH, forming a circle.

Step 2: CH 3. DC in each CH around (7 DC). Without joining, continue to DC in a continuous loop, forming a tube.

Step 3: Continue DC until tube reaches 60 inches. To finish, SC in next ST, then SL ST to last stitch.

Step 4: Pull long tail through and sew both ends together.

Step 5: To attach the strap to the bag body, lay the bag flat with the seam in the back. Place stitch markers in the center of the front and back of the bag. Fold strap in half and attach each end to the sides of the bag with stitch markers.

Step 6: Sew the handle to the bag using Color D, leaving a gap of 4 DC’s on either side of the mid-point of the front and back of the bag.

Pocket:

Shown are two pocket options:

Option 1 on the left and Option 2 on the right.

Step 1: Using 1 stand of yarn color C and size I/9 hook, CH 17. SC in the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC across (16 SC).

Step 2: CH 1, SC in back loop only across (16 SC).

Step 3: CH 1, turn, SC in the front loop of the previous row you just worked the SC in the back loops.

Shown is the row made in the front loop of the previous row, with the back loop only row in front.

Step 4: SC across. When you reach the end CH1 and SC in the next SC on the other side, completing the loop.

Step 5: SC around the loop, working 1 SC in each of the CH spaces (34 SC).

Step 6, Option 1: Repeat continuous rows of SC for 22 rows total. Skip to step 7.

Step 6, Option 2: Complete one more row of SC. Start to DC, continuing for 7 rows. SC last row.

Step 7: Decrease first 2 stitches, SC across to last 2 stitches, decrease. CH 1, turn. Repeat decrease of first 2 stitches, SC across, and decrease last 2 stitches until the final row of 2 decreases. Chain 7 and SL ST to second SC to create button loop. Weave in end.

Step 8: Sew on a button of your choice.

Pocket Option 2 (shown in final product photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 12 in./30 cm.

Height (with mat inside): 18 in./46 cm.

Namaste!

The February Sky Scarf

Posted on February 11, 2019 by February Sky Designs

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.

If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!

The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.

The February Sky Scarf

Materials

2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
Size N hook
Large Eye Thread Needle

Abbreviations:

Chain (CH)
Skip (SK)
Single Crochet (SC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

NOTES

The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The scarf can also be made with bulky weight yarn instead.
The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.

PATTERN:

Infinity Scarf:

CH 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1^st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).

Cowl:

CH 30.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1^st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

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