The Simon Square Baby Blanket

I love projects that are quick, great stash busters, and don’t require any counting, and this blanket fits the bill perfectly!

I made a baby blanket version for my bestie’s new baby, but this pattern lets you keep adding rows until the blanket is as big as you’d like! It can also be adjusted for any yarn weight, so grab your stash and get stitching!

THE SIMON SQUARE BABY BLANKET CROCHET PATTERN

Materials:

  • 575 yards of Level 6 Super Bulky yarn (pictured is Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Succulent, Butterscotch and Fisherman, 6 balls total)
  • Size M/13 9mm crochet hook
  • Large eye sewing needle
  • Scissors

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain- (CH)

-Single Crochet- (SC)

-Skip- (SK)

-Invisible Slip Stitch- (ISS)

-Stitch(es)- (ST(s))

-Magic Circle- (MC)

Gauge:

4×4” = 10 rows x 10 stitches

Notes:

  • 2023 UPDATE!: I’ve recently learned how to make the linen stitch into a perfect square. The pattern as written will naturally curve slightly at the corners due to the slanting nature of the SC stitch. To avoid this (which is a personal preference!) you’ll want to end each row by slip stitching into the 1st ST of the previous row, then turning your work and working the pattern in the opposite direction. If you turn your work (without making a CH at the start) you will make a perfectly square blanket.
  • This pattern is done in Moss Stitch (also known as Linen Stitch or Granite Stitch). This is simply a sequence of two stitches, the single crochet and chain, where the single crochets are made in the chain spaces of the previous row.
  • This pattern uses a technique called “Invisible Slip Stitch” to create a seamless join at the corners of each row. This is done by removing your hook from your final stitch, inserting the hook from back to front in the stitch you want to connect to, and grabbing the loop and pulling through from front to back (see pictorials). This stitch can be subbed out with a regular slip stitch (which is what you’ll use if turning your rows to make the perfect square).
  • Change colors by finishing the final CH with the current color and completing the Invisible Slip Stitch with the next color. Color changes are not denoted in this pattern and can be made at any time!
  • The size of the blanket can be adjusted by simply continuing with the rows until the desired size is obtained.

Pattern:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Row 1: In MC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC. ISS to beginning CH 2. (12 STS)

R2: Without making a CH, in the CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC. *CH 1 and SK SC, in next CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC.* Repeat from * to * twice more, ending with ISS in first SC. (20)

R3: Without making a CH, SC, CH 2, SC into CH 2 space. *CH 1, SK next SC, SC into CH space, CH 1, SK SC, in corner CH 2 space SC + CH 2 + SC.* Repeat from * to * twice more, end row with an ISS in the 1st SC. (28)

R4: Without making a CH, in CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC. CH 1, SK SC, SC in next CH space. Repeat around, with SC + CH 2 + SC in each corner, and ending with an ISS in the 1st SC. (36)

R5-R46: Repeat row 4, changing yarn colors whenever you wish (see notes/pictorials).

Finished baby blanket is 46 rows total, but you can keep going to make the square as large as you’d like!

Final measurements:

Baby Blanket 36” x 36”, 46 rows total

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

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The Cozy Crochet Cat Bed

As an animal lover and someone who is trying to save some money, diying as many items as possible for my new kitties was a no-brainer. We crocheters can do some incredible things with yarn, and making practical items is one of those things!

This is the perfect stash-buster project for your kitty or small dog. All you need are a couple skeins of super bulky yarn (I used Hometown by Lion Brand) and some poly fill stuffing. You could even use some old T-shirt’s for stuffing if you wanted! I’ve also included instructions for a faux fur insert to make the bed extra cozy. Whatever yarn you choose your furry friends are sure to love their new handmade bed as much as mine do!

One bed is the perfect size for one cat, or two kittens who love to snuggle!

What you’ll need:

-about 240 yards of super bulky/level 6 yarn (three skeins of Hometown USA by Lion Brand)

-one skein faux fur yarn (optional)- Go For Faux yarn by Lion Brand

-N/15 10mm crochet hook

-poly fill stuffing

-ruler or tape measure

-scissors

-large eye sewing needle

FINISHED DIMENSIONS:

-starting square 24 x 24”

-bed 20 x 20”

-fur insert 10.5 x 10.5”

NOTES:

-Any yarn and hook size can be used, just make sure the starting square is 24 x 24”.

-The size of the bed is customizable. Start with any even number of chains and make the starting square bigger or smaller as needed.

-Sewing up the back isn’t an exact science. You just want puffy edges to rest their head on!

PATTERN:

-CH 60

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1 CH, SC. Repeat across, ending with a SC. (59 ST)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in next CH space. CH 1, skip SC, SC in next CH space. Repeat across until last CH space. SC in final SC. (59 ST)

Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in first ST. CH 1, SK 1, SC in next CH space. Repeat across, SC in final SC. (59 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 52 rows, or until square is an even length on all sides. Fasten off yarn.

SIDES:

Fold edge up 4” on one side. Attach yarn about 8” from one side with a slip stitch. Surface crochet across the edge and back of the panel until you’re 8” away from the other edge.

Fold next edge over 4”, make corner into a point and continue to surface crochet along the next edge until you’re 8” from the next edge. Repeat twice more until all four edges are attached to the back. SL ST to the first SC and fasten off yarn.

In the example I SC’d around the edge points.
This isn’t necessary, but it’s an option.

You now have a square with four pointed corners and four tunnels on the sides. Fill the tunnels with polyfil until the sides are round but not bulging. Once all tunnels are filled stitch the corners vertically with a few stitches to secure the filling and square off the corners. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Faux Fur Insert:

With the N hook and faux fur yarn, CH 21.

SC in 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across (20 ST).

CH 1, turn. SC across (20 ST).

Repeat until square measures 10.5 x 10.5”. Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have as much fun making this bed as your furry friend will have sleeping in it! If you make one and share it on Instagram I’d love if you tagged me and use the hashtag #cozycrochetcatbed so I can see what you make!

Cozy Christmas Cottage Planters

If you’ve been on my Instagram in the past year you know I’m obsessed with my Cozy Cottage planters. My collection of cottages continues to grow, and I’m so excited to add these little gingerbread houses to the mix!

Since I released the pattern for my Cozy Cottage planters earlier this year, I’ve made cottages for all seasons!

Winter:

SpringSummer:

Fall:

But from the beginning I had these gingerbread cottages planned for Christmas! My inspiration for these planters was partially the ceramic village I put up on my mantle for the holidays, and these fit right in!

This post serves as a supplement to my Cozy Cottage Planter pattern and will go over the changes and additions I made for the gingerbread version. So, before you continue reading, go grab the pattern here, then come back and create your own cozy gingerbread cottages for your tiny trees (real or fake!).

Yarn used (per cottage):

-45 yards of super bulky yarn in your brown shade of choice (pictured is Loops & Threads Cozy Wool in Chocolate)

-a few yards of super bulky yarn in white (pictured is Loops & Threads Lush Alpaca in White)

-a few yards of super bulky yarn in red (pictured is Loops & Threads Cozy Wool in Claret)

-a few yards of another color, like green (pictured is Buttercream Alpaca in Green)

I used a 6 mm hook for both the cottage and the wreath additions.

Changes to pattern:

No changes are made until you finish the main body and are ready to move onto the roof. Your brown yarn will be Color A, and then you can choose which colors to make your details with.

Change to the roof section: Instead of detaching Color A and continuing with Color B, detach and continue the roof section with Color A (brown) per the pattern. Instead of crocheting around the edges of the roof and sides with the brown yarn, detach and complete the second side of the roof up to the edging. Detach brown yarn and attach white yarn to a corner next to a roof side. Single crochet evenly around the roof sides and the cottage sides, then tie off and weave in all ends. Move onto wreaths and details below.

“Icing” on the top of the front window and door:

Using your white yarn, thread a sewing needle and whip stitch along the top of the door and window, keeping the stitches loose and fluffy. Add a doorknob if desired.

Wreath directions:

Using a color other than brown, make two wreaths for each cottage.

Circle Wreath:

Using super bulky yarn and a 6mm hook, chain 6. Slip stitch to 1st chain to create a ring. Chain 1 and make 14 single crochets inside the chain ring. Slip stitch to the first single crochet and leave a medium length tail. Attach a short strand of red yarn and tie a bow. Attach the wreath to the top of a roof side using the two tails.

Heart Wreath:

Using super bulky yarn and a 6 mm hook, make a magic circle. Into the MC, CH 2, 2 DC, 3 HDC, CH 1, DC, CH 1, 3 HDC, 2 DC, CH 2. Pull magic circle partially closed and slip stitch into the center. Tighten MC and attach wreath to the second roof side using the two tails.

I hope you love your gingerbread cottages as much as I love mine! If you need the link to the pattern, it’s here. And if you make your own cottages, please share them on Instagram with the hashtag #cozycottageplanters and tag me @Februaryskydesigns. Happy Holidays!

The Golden Hour Pumpkins

As soon as Labor Day passes I’m officially in Fall mode (and let’s be honest, sometimes it hits before then!). I love decorating my space with cozy fall decor, and I’m always looking for cute pumpkin patterns to add to my collection. Well, this year I thought it was high time I made a pumpkin pattern of my own! Thus, the Golden Hour Pumpkins were born.

These pumpkins use the same stitch as my Golden Hour throw, so if you enjoy this quickie project head over and check out your next cozy blanket!

All you need is about 45 yards of your favorite bulky yarn (I used an assortment of Eco Cozy colors from Michaels) and a size L hook. But, of course, these pumpkins can be made using any yarn! The sizes will vary, but that’s part of the fun of making your own little pumpkin collection.

Let’s get started!

GOLDEN HOUR PUMPKINS CROCHET PATTERN

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain- (CH)

-Single Crochet- (SC)

-Half Double Crochet- (HDC)

-Stitch(es)- (ST(s))

Materials:

  • 45 yards of any level 5 Bulky yarn (pictured is Eco Cozy by Loops & Threads from Michaels)
  • Size L/11 8mm crochet hook
  • Large eye sewing needle
  • Scissors
  • Poly-fil stuffing
  • Cinnamon stick for the stem

Gauge:

4×4” = 9 rows x 11 stitches

Notes:

  • The chains at the beginning of each row do not count as stitches.
  • The SC rows are done in the third loop of the HDC’s. This loop is behind the top two loops of the HDC, and will be the loop closest to you on the wrong side of the pumpkins..
  • Adjust the size to your liking! Any length chain can be used to start, and the two row repeat can be added to or subtracted from as needed!

PATTERN:

CH 13.

Row 1: HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across. (12 STs)

R2: Ch 1. SC in the 3rd back loop of each HDC (see notes). (12 STs)

R3: CH 1. HDC in each SC across. (12 STs)

R4-24: Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 24 rows total. Do not fasten off.

With wrong side up, bring beginning CH and final SC edges together. Surface crochet the sides together, working through both loops of the SC’s. Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail (at least 12 inches).

Using a large eye sewing needle, whip stitch along the edge in the raised HDC stitches. Pull tight to close and work around the hole a couple times to secure.

Thread the needle through the center and pull through. Add Poly-fil stuffing around the tail, making sure not to fill too much so that it shows through the fabric.

Once the pumpkin is filled, whip stitch around the edge. Pull to close, but leave a small hole in the center. Work around the hole a couple more times to secure and fasten off.

Cut a cinnamon stick in half and hot glue it into the hole on the top of the pumpkin.

Final measurements:

Before sewing: 4 1/2 x 11”

Finished pumpkin: 2 1/2” tall, 5” across

I hope you enjoy this pumpkin pattern and add your own cozy decorations to your home to celebrate this wonderful season! If you make some and share to Instagram make sure to tag me and use the hashtag #goldenhourpumpkins so I can see your beautiful creations!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it. 

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Cody Corner to Corner Blanket

When I’m looking for a new project, I usually fall into two camps- trying something I’ve never experienced before (new yarn, new stitches, new construction), or a simple project that I can do almost without thinking. This lovely blanket falls into the second category for me, and it was a relaxing pleasure to work on. It has: one stitch throughout, no color changes, only a few ends to weave in, and it can be easily customized to any size you want. It doesn’t get any easier than that!

The only technique you need to be familiar with is Corner to Corner crochet. This is done using a set of double crochets and chains, and once you get the hang of it you’ll be flying through this project. It’s actually the one stitch I can do consistently without looking, so I’m able to bring projects like this on road trips and not get carsick!

The optional border is still using double crochets, but you’ll grab a contrasting colored yarn and make a nice ribbed edge by working front and back post DC’s. Don’t worry, I have all the picture tutorials you need to make this blanket. Just grab your striped yarn and let’s get started!

Materials:
-850 yards of worsted yarn- suggested Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes (2 skeins)- Pictured is Wish Bone
-100 yards of worsted yarn in contrasting color for border- Pictured Lion Brand Basic Stitch in Charcoal
Size J/10 6mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch abbreviations:
-Chain (CH)
-Double Crochet (DC)
-Corner to Corner (C2C)
-Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC)
-Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC)

Gauge: 3” by 3” = 4×4 squares
Measurements: Blanket with border 36” by 36”, 44×44 squares

Notes: This blanket is easily customizable by continuing the base to the desired length before starting to decrease. Any yarn and hook can be used, but I recommend creating a 4×4 square gauge to determine how many squares you’ll need for the full blanket.

Pattern:

See photos below pattern for step-by-step C2C instructions.
Using striped yarn, begin C2C pattern. Continue until base sides reach 44×44 squares before decreasing, or continue until desired size. Fasten off and continue to border.


Border:
See pictures for more details.
Attach contrasting yarn to one corner of blanket. CH 3, DC 2 in CH 3 space. Continue to DC across, making 3 DC in each block.

After final DC of the row, CH 3. Work 2 DC in the last DC of the row. Turn and work 3 DC in each block across next side. Repeat corner (CH 3, DC 2 in last DC of row).

After the last corner is turned, SL ST into 1st CH 3 of the border foundation row. CH 2. Alternate FPDC and BPDC in each DC. After last FP or BP of the side, CH 3, turn, and continue FP/BP in each DC across. The CH 3 will create the corner.

Continue around until reaching the beginning CH 2. SL ST into CH 2 space. CH 2 and make 2-3 more rows of Fp/BP border. F/O and weave in ends.

Corner to Corner Pictorials:

Border Pictorials:

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Big Bauble Tree Skirt

Last year I published my popular Mini Bauble Tree Skirt pattern, and this year I had a lot of requests for a full-size version! I’m thrilled to introduce your perfect squishy tree accessory, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt! This crochet pattern uses simple stitches, fun bobbles, and optional pom-poms to make a big and cozy skirt that adds texture and warmth under your tree!

I’ve created a Bauble Tree Skirt Collection, which includes the patterns for the Mini and Big Bauble tree skirts in one beautifully formatted, add-free PDF! Grab it here.

It’ll even be a favorite for your furry friends!

The pattern alternates rows of double crochet, single crochet, and single crochet with bobbles. Each row increases by 6 stitches, making a circular skirt. I opted not to tie the back together, but you can definitely add ties if you want to keep your skirt secure around the tree!

Rows 1-4 are shown below:

Without further ado, let’s get to the pattern!

THE BIG BAUBLE TREE SKIRT PATTERN

For the low-cost, ad-free PDF of this pattern (which includes the Mini Bauble skirt pattern!), click here.

What you’ll need:

  • 11.5/12 mm P/15 crochet hook
  • 630 yards of Super Bulky (Level 6) yarn (pictured is Lionbrand Wool Ease Thick and Quick in Fisherman, 6 balls)
  • Scissors
  • Optional- stitch markers
  • Optional- 1 skein of contrasting color super bulky yarn for the pom-poms
  • Optional- Pom-pom maker

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

-Bobble (B)

-Increase (INC)

-Bobble Increase (BInc)

Final measurements:

45” (114 cm) diameter, 20” (51 cm) from center edge to outer edge

Notes:

-There are three size options written out for this pattern, which are all for a large (4.5-9 foot) tree. If you are looking for a skirt for a mini tree (2-3 feet), then check out my Mini Bauble Tree Skirt pattern here.

  • Size Options:
    • For a smaller skirt, about 34.5” diameter, stop after row 21. This uses about 4 balls of Wool Ease Thick and Quick.
    • For the skirt pictured, continue to row 27.
    • For a bigger skirt, 4 additional rows are written out (rows 28 to 31), about 50” diameter.

-The chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches.

-For rows 16 and 24, the increase stitches count as stitches in the bobble spacing. For all other bobble rows, the increases do not get included in the spacing count.

-An increase (INC) is two stitches made in the same stitch, increasing the row count. Each row increases by 6 stitches. The bobble increases (BInc) mean to make a bobble and a single crochet in the same stitch. The single crochet always comes before the bobble except in row 24, when it needs to come after to keep the spacing correct.

-The last increase in each bobble row is a single crochet increase (two SC in the last ST).

Special Stitches:

– Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

PATTERN:

CH 38.

Row 1: DC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across. (36)

R2: CH 1. SC 5, INC. Repeat to end. (42)

R3: CH 2. DC 3, INC, *DC 6, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 3. (48)

R4: CH 1. *SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (54)

R5: CH 2. DC 4, INC, *DC 8, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 4. (60)

R6: CH 1. SC 9, INC. Repeat to end. (66)

R7: CH 2. DC 5, INC, *DC 10, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 5. (72)

R8: CH 1. *SC 5, B, SC 5, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (78)

R9: CH 2. DC 6, INC, *DC 12, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 6. (84)

R10: CH 1. SC 13, INC. Repeat to end. (90)

R11: CH 2. DC 7, INC, *DC 14, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 7. (96)

R12: CH 1. *SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from *to *, end with SC INC. (102)

R13: CH 2. DC 8, INC, *DC 16, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 8. (108)

R14: CH 1. SC 17, INC. Repeat to end. (114)

R15: CH 2. DC 9, INC, *DC 18, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 9. (120)

R16: CH 1. *SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC, INC, SC 2, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 4, INCBobble*. Repeat from * to * two more times, end with SC INC. (126)

R17: CH 2. DC 10, INC, *DC 20, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 10. (132)

R18: CH 1. SC 21, INC. Repeat to end. (138)

R19: CH 2. DC 11, INC, *DC 22, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 11. (144)

R20: CH 1. *SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (150)

R21: CH 2. DC 12, INC, *DC 24, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 12. (156)

R22: CH 1. SC 25, INC. Repeat to end. (162)

R23: CH 2. DC 13, INC, *DC 26, INC). Repeat from * to *, end with DC 13. (168)

R24: CH 1. SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 3, INC, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 2, INC, SC, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC, INC, SC 2, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, INC, SC 3, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, BInc, SC 4, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC5, B, SC 4, INC. (174)

R25: CH 2. DC 14, INC, *DC 28, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 14. (180)

R26: CH 1. SC 29, INC. Repeat to end. (186)

R27: CH 2. DC 15, INC, *DC 30, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 15. (192)

Extra large size (50”):

R28: CH 1. SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc. Repeat sequence, end with SC INC. (198)

R29: CH 2. DC 16, INC, *DC 32, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 16. (204)

R30: CH 1. SC 33, INC. Repeat to end. (210)

R31: CH 2. DC 17, INC, *DC 34, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 17. (216)

From here you can add optional pom-poms for some color and extra bauble-goodness. For my skirt I made 16 3″ poms and attached them about 7.5″ apart around the edge of the skirt.

I hope you enjoy making the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, and if you do please tag me on Instagram! I love to see and share your work! Merry Christmas!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

If you’re looking for a full-size version of this pattern (for a tree that’s 5-9 feet), then you’re in luck! I’ve created the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern for big trees, and you can find the free pattern here! I’ve also created the Bauble Tree Skirt Collection that combines both the Mini and Big Bauble patterns in one beautifully formatted, low cost PDF, found on my Etsy here!

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

For the ad-free PDF version of this pattern (which also includes the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern!) click here.

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-About 160 yards of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn

-Size P-15 (12 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

  • When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When an instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
  • The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).
  • The full-size version of this pattern, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, can be found here!

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*.  Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Cozy Crochet Plant Hanger

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% free to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cozy little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

You can find a beautifully formatted, 6-page PDF in my Etsy shop with full color pictorials and step by step instructions.

Get your copy here!

If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instagram, @februaryskydesigns and use the hashtag #cozycrochetplanthanger!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn, or similar Bulky Level 5 yarn made of cotton/acrylic and nylon.
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 7”

Height (before hanging): 8” (without ring or tassel)

Purchase the ad-free, full color PDF for a few dollars here! Thank you for supporting my work.

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.

If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!

The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.

The February Sky Scarf

Materials

  • 2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

NOTES

  • The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The scarf can also be made with bulky weight yarn instead.
  • The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
  • The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
  • In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
  • Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.

PATTERN:

Infinity Scarf:

CH 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).

Cowl:

CH 30.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!