The Simon Square Baby Blanket

Posted on March 7, 2022 by February Sky Designs

I love projects that are quick, great stash busters, and don’t require any counting, and this blanket fits the bill perfectly!

I made a baby blanket version for my bestie’s new baby, but this pattern lets you keep adding rows until the blanket is as big as you’d like! It can also be adjusted for any yarn weight, so grab your stash and get stitching!

THE SIMON SQUARE BABY BLANKET CROCHET PATTERN

Materials:

575 yards of Level 6 Super Bulky yarn (pictured is Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Succulent, Butterscotch and Fisherman, 6 balls total)
Size M/13 9mm crochet hook
Large eye sewing needle
Scissors

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain- (CH)

-Single Crochet- (SC)

-Skip- (SK)

-Invisible Slip Stitch- (ISS)

-Stitch(es)- (ST(s))

-Magic Circle- (MC)

Gauge:

4×4” = 10 rows x 10 stitches

Notes:

2023 UPDATE!: I’ve recently learned how to make the linen stitch into a perfect square. The pattern as written will naturally curve slightly at the corners due to the slanting nature of the SC stitch. To avoid this (which is a personal preference!) you’ll want to end each row by slip stitching into the 1st ST of the previous row, then turning your work and working the pattern in the opposite direction. If you turn your work (without making a CH at the start) you will make a perfectly square blanket.
This pattern is done in Moss Stitch (also known as Linen Stitch or Granite Stitch). This is simply a sequence of two stitches, the single crochet and chain, where the single crochets are made in the chain spaces of the previous row.
This pattern uses a technique called “Invisible Slip Stitch” to create a seamless join at the corners of each row. This is done by removing your hook from your final stitch, inserting the hook from back to front in the stitch you want to connect to, and grabbing the loop and pulling through from front to back (see pictorials). This stitch can be subbed out with a regular slip stitch (which is what you’ll use if turning your rows to make the perfect square).
Change colors by finishing the final CH with the current color and completing the Invisible Slip Stitch with the next color. Color changes are not denoted in this pattern and can be made at any time!
The size of the blanket can be adjusted by simply continuing with the rows until the desired size is obtained.

Pattern:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Row 1: In MC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC, CH 2, SC. ISS to beginning CH 2. (12 STS)

R2: Without making a CH, in the CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC. *CH 1 and SK SC, in next CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC.* Repeat from * to * twice more, ending with ISS in first SC. (20)

R3: Without making a CH, SC, CH 2, SC into CH 2 space. *CH 1, SK next SC, SC into CH space, CH 1, SK SC, in corner CH 2 space SC + CH 2 + SC.* Repeat from * to * twice more, end row with an ISS in the 1^st SC. (28)

R4: Without making a CH, in CH 2 space SC, CH 2, SC. CH 1, SK SC, SC in next CH space. Repeat around, with SC + CH 2 + SC in each corner, and ending with an ISS in the 1^st SC. (36)

R5-R46: Repeat row 4, changing yarn colors whenever you wish (see notes/pictorials).

Finished baby blanket is 46 rows total, but you can keep going to make the square as large as you’d like!

Final measurements:

Baby Blanket 36” x 36”, 46 rows total

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Cozy Crochet Cat Bed

Posted on February 17, 2022 by February Sky Designs

As an animal lover and someone who is trying to save some money, diying as many items as possible for my new kitties was a no-brainer. We crocheters can do some incredible things with yarn, and making practical items is one of those things!

This is the perfect stash-buster project for your kitty or small dog. All you need are a couple skeins of super bulky yarn (I used Hometown by Lion Brand) and some poly fill stuffing. You could even use some old T-shirt’s for stuffing if you wanted! I’ve also included instructions for a faux fur insert to make the bed extra cozy. Whatever yarn you choose your furry friends are sure to love their new handmade bed as much as mine do!

One bed is the perfect size for one cat, or two kittens who love to snuggle!

What you’ll need:

-about 240 yards of super bulky/level 6 yarn (three skeins of Hometown USA by Lion Brand)

-one skein faux fur yarn (optional)- Go For Faux yarn by Lion Brand

-N/15 10mm crochet hook

-poly fill stuffing

-ruler or tape measure

-scissors

-large eye sewing needle

FINISHED DIMENSIONS:

-starting square 24 x 24”

-bed 20 x 20”

-fur insert 10.5 x 10.5”

NOTES:

-Any yarn and hook size can be used, just make sure the starting square is 24 x 24”.

-The size of the bed is customizable. Start with any even number of chains and make the starting square bigger or smaller as needed.

-Sewing up the back isn’t an exact science. You just want puffy edges to rest their head on!

PATTERN:

-CH 60

Row 1: SC in the second CH from the hook. CH 1, SK 1 CH, SC. Repeat across, ending with a SC. (59 ST)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in next CH space. CH 1, skip SC, SC in next CH space. Repeat across until last CH space. SC in final SC. (59 ST)

Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in first ST. CH 1, SK 1, SC in next CH space. Repeat across, SC in final SC. (59 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 52 rows, or until square is an even length on all sides. Fasten off yarn.

SIDES:

Fold edge up 4” on one side. Attach yarn about 8” from one side with a slip stitch. Surface crochet across the edge and back of the panel until you’re 8” away from the other edge.

Fold next edge over 4”, make corner into a point and continue to surface crochet along the next edge until you’re 8” from the next edge. Repeat twice more until all four edges are attached to the back. SL ST to the first SC and fasten off yarn.

In the example I SC’d around the edge points.
This isn’t necessary, but it’s an option.

You now have a square with four pointed corners and four tunnels on the sides. Fill the tunnels with polyfil until the sides are round but not bulging. Once all tunnels are filled stitch the corners vertically with a few stitches to secure the filling and square off the corners. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Faux Fur Insert:

With the N hook and faux fur yarn, CH 21.

SC in 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across (20 ST).

CH 1, turn. SC across (20 ST).

Repeat until square measures 10.5 x 10.5”. Fasten off and weave in ends.

I hope you have as much fun making this bed as your furry friend will have sleeping in it! If you make one and share it on Instagram I’d love if you tagged me and use the hashtag #cozycrochetcatbed so I can see what you make!

The Golden Hour Pumpkins

Posted on November 5, 2021 by February Sky Designs

As soon as Labor Day passes I’m officially in Fall mode (and let’s be honest, sometimes it hits before then!). I love decorating my space with cozy fall decor, and I’m always looking for cute pumpkin patterns to add to my collection. Well, this year I thought it was high time I made a pumpkin pattern of my own! Thus, the Golden Hour Pumpkins were born.

These pumpkins use the same stitch as my Golden Hour throw, so if you enjoy this quickie project head over and check out your next cozy blanket!

All you need is about 45 yards of your favorite bulky yarn (I used an assortment of Eco Cozy colors from Michaels) and a size L hook. But, of course, these pumpkins can be made using any yarn! The sizes will vary, but that’s part of the fun of making your own little pumpkin collection.

Let’s get started!

GOLDEN HOUR PUMPKINS CROCHET PATTERN

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain- (CH)

-Single Crochet- (SC)

-Half Double Crochet- (HDC)

-Stitch(es)- (ST(s))

Materials:

45 yards of any level 5 Bulky yarn (pictured is Eco Cozy by Loops & Threads from Michaels)
Size L/11 8mm crochet hook
Large eye sewing needle
Scissors
Poly-fil stuffing
Cinnamon stick for the stem

Gauge:

4×4” = 9 rows x 11 stitches

Notes:

The chains at the beginning of each row do not count as stitches.
The SC rows are done in the third loop of the HDC’s. This loop is behind the top two loops of the HDC, and will be the loop closest to you on the wrong side of the pumpkins..
Adjust the size to your liking! Any length chain can be used to start, and the two row repeat can be added to or subtracted from as needed!

PATTERN:

CH 13.

Row 1: HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook and in each CH across. (12 STs)

R2: Ch 1. SC in the 3^rd back loop of each HDC (see notes). (12 STs)

R3: CH 1. HDC in each SC across. (12 STs)

R4-24: Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 24 rows total. Do not fasten off.

With wrong side up, bring beginning CH and final SC edges together. Surface crochet the sides together, working through both loops of the SC’s. Fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail (at least 12 inches).

Using a large eye sewing needle, whip stitch along the edge in the raised HDC stitches. Pull tight to close and work around the hole a couple times to secure.

Thread the needle through the center and pull through. Add Poly-fil stuffing around the tail, making sure not to fill too much so that it shows through the fabric.

Once the pumpkin is filled, whip stitch around the edge. Pull to close, but leave a small hole in the center. Work around the hole a couple more times to secure and fasten off.

Cut a cinnamon stick in half and hot glue it into the hole on the top of the pumpkin.

Final measurements:

Before sewing: 4 1/2 x 11”

Finished pumpkin: 2 1/2” tall, 5” across

I hope you enjoy this pumpkin pattern and add your own cozy decorations to your home to celebrate this wonderful season! If you make some and share to Instagram make sure to tag me and use the hashtag #goldenhourpumpkins so I can see your beautiful creations!

The Cody Corner to Corner Blanket

Posted on June 24, 2021 by February Sky Designs

When I’m looking for a new project, I usually fall into two camps- trying something I’ve never experienced before (new yarn, new stitches, new construction), or a simple project that I can do almost without thinking. This lovely blanket falls into the second category for me, and it was a relaxing pleasure to work on. It has: one stitch throughout, no color changes, only a few ends to weave in, and it can be easily customized to any size you want. It doesn’t get any easier than that!

The only technique you need to be familiar with is Corner to Corner crochet. This is done using a set of double crochets and chains, and once you get the hang of it you’ll be flying through this project. It’s actually the one stitch I can do consistently without looking, so I’m able to bring projects like this on road trips and not get carsick!

The optional border is still using double crochets, but you’ll grab a contrasting colored yarn and make a nice ribbed edge by working front and back post DC’s. Don’t worry, I have all the picture tutorials you need to make this blanket. Just grab your striped yarn and let’s get started!

Materials:
-850 yards of worsted yarn- suggested Lion Brand Mandala Tweed Stripes (2 skeins)- Pictured is Wish Bone
-100 yards of worsted yarn in contrasting color for border- Pictured Lion Brand Basic Stitch in Charcoal
Size J/10 6mm hook, or size needed to obtain gauge

Stitch abbreviations:
-Chain (CH)
-Double Crochet (DC)
-Corner to Corner (C2C)
-Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC)
-Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC)

Gauge: 3” by 3” = 4×4 squares
Measurements: Blanket with border 36” by 36”, 44×44 squares

Notes: This blanket is easily customizable by continuing the base to the desired length before starting to decrease. Any yarn and hook can be used, but I recommend creating a 4×4 square gauge to determine how many squares you’ll need for the full blanket.

Pattern:

See photos below pattern for step-by-step C2C instructions.
Using striped yarn, begin C2C pattern. Continue until base sides reach 44×44 squares before decreasing, or continue until desired size. Fasten off and continue to border.

Border:
See pictures for more details.
Attach contrasting yarn to one corner of blanket. CH 3, DC 2 in CH 3 space. Continue to DC across, making 3 DC in each block.

After final DC of the row, CH 3. Work 2 DC in the last DC of the row. Turn and work 3 DC in each block across next side. Repeat corner (CH 3, DC 2 in last DC of row).

After the last corner is turned, SL ST into 1st CH 3 of the border foundation row. CH 2. Alternate FPDC and BPDC in each DC. After last FP or BP of the side, CH 3, turn, and continue FP/BP in each DC across. The CH 3 will create the corner.

Continue around until reaching the beginning CH 2. SL ST into CH 2 space. CH 2 and make 2-3 more rows of Fp/BP border. F/O and weave in ends.

Corner to Corner Pictorials:

CH 6. DC in 4th CH from the hook and next 2 CH’s.

Rows 1 and 2 complete. CH 6. Repeat DC in 4th CH from the hook and next two CH’s.

Decreasing: On final block of row, turn and slip stitch in each DC and into the CH 3 space. Continue with next block.

Border Pictorials:

Border: Attach yarn to corner, CH 3, DC 2 in CH 3 space.

After the last corner is turned, SL ST into 1st CH 3 of row.

Golden Hour Throw Blanket

Posted on January 4, 2021 by February Sky Designs

January is here, and there’s nothing I want more than to snuggle up under a cozy blanket during these long winter nights. I was inspired by the beautiful Caron Swirl Cakes yarn to update my home décor and add some beautiful color and texture to my living room. The acrylic wool blend makes this blanket very warm without being too heavy or scratchy, and the gold, cream and gray tones are perfect for adding some brightness to these cold and dreary days!

The great thing about this throw, besides the lovely yarn, is the texture. Using just two simple stitches, you can achieve a knit look crochet blanket with a dense texture that will keep you warm all winter.

All you need for this pattern is Caron Swirl Cakes yarn, or a comparable bulky weight yarn, a size N crochet hook, and to know how to single crochet and half double crochet. It doesn’t get much easier than that! Let’s get to it…

GOLDEN HOUR THROW CROCHET PATTERN

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain- (CH)

-Single Crochet- (SC)

-Half Double Crochet- (HDC)

-Stitch(es)- (ST(s))

Materials:

7 balls of Caron Swirl Cakes in the color Gold Fusion, or 1750 yards of any level 5 Bulky yarn (acrylic wool blend)
Size N/17 9mm crochet hook
Large eye sewing needle
Scissors
Tape measure

Gauge:

4×4” = 8 rows x 10 stitches

Special Notes:

The SC rows are done in the third loop of the HDC’s. This loop is behind the top two loops of the HDC, and will be the loop closest to you on the back of the blanket.
Adjust the size to your liking. Any length chain can be used to start, and the two row repeat can be added to or subtracted from as needed!
The chains at the beginning of each row do not count as stitches.
The blanket will curl a bit on the sides due to the tension of the stitches. This is normal and will flatten as the blanket gets larger. A border can be added at the end to flatten it completely.

Pattern:

CH 122.

Row 1: HDC in the 3^rd CH from the hook and in each CH across. (120 STs)

R2: Ch 1. SC in the 3^rd back loop of each HDC (see notes). (120 STs)

R3: CH 2. HDC in each SC across. (120 STs)

R4-140: Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 140 rows, or until desired size. Cut yarn, weave in ends and enjoy!

Final measurements:

-52” (132 cm) wide, 70” (178 cm) long

I hope you enjoy this pattern! If you make a Golden Hour throw be sure to tag me in your pics on Instagram because I love to see your creations!

The Big Bauble Tree Skirt

Posted on December 6, 2020 by February Sky Designs

Last year I published my popular Mini Bauble Tree Skirt pattern, and this year I had a lot of requests for a full-size version! I’m thrilled to introduce your perfect squishy tree accessory, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt! This crochet pattern uses simple stitches, fun bobbles, and optional pom-poms to make a big and cozy skirt that adds texture and warmth under your tree!

I’ve created a Bauble Tree Skirt Collection, which includes the patterns for the Mini and Big Bauble tree skirts in one beautifully formatted, add-free PDF! Grab it here.

It’ll even be a favorite for your furry friends!

The pattern alternates rows of double crochet, single crochet, and single crochet with bobbles. Each row increases by 6 stitches, making a circular skirt. I opted not to tie the back together, but you can definitely add ties if you want to keep your skirt secure around the tree!

Rows 1-4 are shown below:

Without further ado, let’s get to the pattern!

THE BIG BAUBLE TREE SKIRT PATTERN

For the low-cost, ad-free PDF of this pattern (which includes the Mini Bauble skirt pattern!), click here.

What you’ll need:

11.5/12 mm P/15 crochet hook
630 yards of Super Bulky (Level 6) yarn (pictured is Lionbrand Wool Ease Thick and Quick in Fisherman, 6 balls)
Scissors
Optional- stitch markers
Optional- 1 skein of contrasting color super bulky yarn for the pom-poms
Optional- Pom-pom maker

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

-Bobble (B)

-Increase (INC)

-Bobble Increase (BInc)

Final measurements:

45” (114 cm) diameter, 20” (51 cm) from center edge to outer edge

Notes:

-There are three size options written out for this pattern, which are all for a large (4.5-9 foot) tree. If you are looking for a skirt for a mini tree (2-3 feet), then check out my Mini Bauble Tree Skirt pattern here.

Size Options:
- For a smaller skirt, about 34.5” diameter, stop after row 21. This uses about 4 balls of Wool Ease Thick and Quick.
- For the skirt pictured, continue to row 27.
- For a bigger skirt, 4 additional rows are written out (rows 28 to 31), about 50” diameter.

-The chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches.

-For rows 16 and 24, the increase stitches count as stitches in the bobble spacing. For all other bobble rows, the increases do not get included in the spacing count.

-An increase (INC) is two stitches made in the same stitch, increasing the row count. Each row increases by 6 stitches. The bobble increases (BInc) mean to make a bobble and a single crochet in the same stitch. The single crochet always comes before the bobble except in row 24, when it needs to come after to keep the spacing correct.

-The last increase in each bobble row is a single crochet increase (two SC in the last ST).

Special Stitches:

– Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

PATTERN:

CH 38.

Row 1: DC in the 2^nd CH from the hook and in each CH across. (36)

R2: CH 1. SC 5, INC. Repeat to end. (42)

R3: CH 2. DC 3, INC, *DC 6, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 3. (48)

R4: CH 1. *SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (54)

R5: CH 2. DC 4, INC, *DC 8, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 4. (60)

R6: CH 1. SC 9, INC. Repeat to end. (66)

R7: CH 2. DC 5, INC, *DC 10, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 5. (72)

R8: CH 1. *SC 5, B, SC 5, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (78)

R9: CH 2. DC 6, INC, *DC 12, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 6. (84)

R10: CH 1. SC 13, INC. Repeat to end. (90)

R11: CH 2. DC 7, INC, *DC 14, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 7. (96)

R12: CH 1. *SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from *to *, end with SC INC. (102)

R13: CH 2. DC 8, INC, *DC 16, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 8. (108)

R14: CH 1. SC 17, INC. Repeat to end. (114)

R15: CH 2. DC 9, INC, *DC 18, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 9. (120)

R16: CH 1. *SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC, INC, SC 2, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 4, INCBobble*. Repeat from * to * two more times, end with SC INC. (126)

R17: CH 2. DC 10, INC, *DC 20, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 10. (132)

R18: CH 1. SC 21, INC. Repeat to end. (138)

R19: CH 2. DC 11, INC, *DC 22, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 11. (144)

R20: CH 1. *SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc*. Repeat from * to *, end with SC INC. (150)

R21: CH 2. DC 12, INC, *DC 24, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 12. (156)

R22: CH 1. SC 25, INC. Repeat to end. (162)

R23: CH 2. DC 13, INC, *DC 26, INC). Repeat from * to *, end with DC 13. (168)

R24: CH 1. SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 3, INC, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 2, INC, SC, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC, INC, SC 2, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, INC, SC 3, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, BInc, SC 4, B, SC 5, B, SC 5, B, SC5, B, SC 4, INC. (174)

R25: CH 2. DC 14, INC, *DC 28, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 14. (180)

R26: CH 1. SC 29, INC. Repeat to end. (186)

R27: CH 2. DC 15, INC, *DC 30, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 15. (192)

Extra large size (50”):

R28: CH 1. SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, B, SC 7, BInc. Repeat sequence, end with SC INC. (198)

R29: CH 2. DC 16, INC, *DC 32, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 16. (204)

R30: CH 1. SC 33, INC. Repeat to end. (210)

R31: CH 2. DC 17, INC, *DC 34, INC*. Repeat from * to *, end with DC 17. (216)

From here you can add optional pom-poms for some color and extra bauble-goodness. For my skirt I made 16 3″ poms and attached them about 7.5″ apart around the edge of the skirt.

I hope you enjoy making the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, and if you do please tag me on Instagram! I love to see and share your work! Merry Christmas!

The Autumn In Love Trio

Posted on September 18, 2020 by February Sky Designs

Can you fall in love with a season? I find myself falling in love with all things autumn every year- the cooler weather that turns the air crisp and the leaves golden, not to mention pumpkin spice coffee, warm scented candles, fluffy blankets- to me, this is perfection. I want to savor this season, and creating beautiful accessories that capture this cozy and colorful time of year is how I like to do it! Read on to see how you can create three lovely and beginner friendly patterns that will help you feel the love this fall!

Introducing- the Autumn in Love Trio!

It started out with the shawl- a simple double crochet repeat that really lets the colors you pick become the stars of the show. I chose an early autumn palette using my favorite worsted weight yarn, Lion Brand Jeans, along with a blush yarn I found. The best part of this shawl, besides how meditative the repeats are (this is a perfect Netflix companion project!), is that the color changes happen whenever you feel like it! Grab a few different yarns from your stash and see where your creativity takes you.

Save your leftover yarn to make the next two patterns in the set- the matching hair scarf and mug cozy! The hair scarf uses the same stitches and increase technique as the shawl, and it’s the perfect accessory to tie your hair back while you’re apple picking or on a hayride (okay, I don’t think most people do hayrides every fall- but it gets windy where I live this time of year!). Then when you get home and it’s time for a chai tea to wind down you’ll have the perfect mug cozy to keep your hands cool and your drink warm! These two patterns are so quick, you’ll have them both done in a night!

The written patterns for all three items are below- keep scrolling to check them out!

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE SHAWL PATTERN

Have I gushed about this shawl enough yet? The great thing about this pattern is that every row is the same, so once you have the increases down you can sit and relax and watch the shawl come to life. I haven’t put in color changes in the pattern, because those are entirely up to you! You can also use one color and it’ll be equally beautiful-especially after you add tassels!

This wrap is not an equilateral triangle, it’s an isosceles- flashback to middle school geometry, that means the two sides are equal in length and shorter than the base side. This makes a shorter triangle, which will wrap around your neck really well when you wear it in front. That’s my favorite way to style a triangle scarf!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

Approximately 550 yards of worsted (Level 4) weight yarn, in multiple colors if desired
Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook, or size to match gauge
Scissors
Yarn Needle

GAUGE: 8 x 8 rows of pattern = 4″, 10 cm

SIZE: 80″ (203 cm) long by 24″ (61 cm) from top edge to bottom of triangle

TECHNIQUES USED:

Magic Circle (MC)

Chain (CH)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

The pattern starts with a Magic Circle. One way to do an MC is to wrap the yarn in an “X” around your hand. Working into the top two strands of the X, push your hook under the first strand, grabbing the second strand and pulling it under the first strand. Take the loop off your hand, being careful to keep the loop on your hook. Begin R1.
Each row of the shawl has an equal number of DC’s and CH’s. For example, R1 has 6 DC’s and 6 CH’s, 12 stitches total.
The CH 4 at the start of each row counts as 1 DC and 1 CH. The CH 2 in the center of each row counts as 2 stitches.
The DC’s of each row after R1 are worked in the CH spaces of the previous row.
The center of each row after R1 has the same *DC, CH 2, DC* worked in the CH 2 space of the previous row.
Each row is increased by 8 stitches. There are 3 extra stitches on each end and 2 in the center. The first increase is made by chaining 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 CH) and then working a DC in the first DC from the previous row. You then chain 1 and work a DC in the very next chain space. The other end is increased by working a *DC, CH, DC* into the 3rd chain of the turning CH 4.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using a 6mm hook, begin with a Magic Circle (see notes).

Row 1: CH 4. Working into MC, DC, CH, DC, CH 2, DC, CH, DC, CH, DC. (12 ST, 6 DC and 6 CH)

Row 2: CH 4. DC in the 1st DC of the last row. CH, DC in 1st chain space. CH, DC in next CH space. CH, in the CH 2 space from the previous row, *DC, CH 2, DC*. CH, DC in next CH space, CH, DC in the CH space made by the CH 4 of the previous row. In the 3^rd CH of starting CH 4, *DC, CH, DC*. (20 ST, 10 DC and 10 CH)

Repeat Row 2, with a DC in each CH space along each side, for a total of 46 rows, or until the shawl has reached your desired size. Keep it monotone, or change up the colors at the end of a row to create stripes! The options are endless.

Don’t forget the tassels! (See below.)

TASSELS:

You’ll create two tassels and attach them to each ends of the shawl.

Step 1: Using any color worsted yarn, cut 4 16″ lengths.

Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap 1 strand of yarn around 60 times (or hold 4 strands together and wrap 15 times).

Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.

Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16 in. length, tie a few knots about 1.5″ from the top.

Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and attach the tassel to the end of the shawl securely.

Repeat steps for second tassel.

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE HAIR SCARF

Have you worn a hair scarf before? There’s no one correct way to do it- if you can think it up, you can wear it! I like to wear it as a headband, but I think it’s really cute as a bow too. You can even tie it to the strap of a bag as a pop of color!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

Approximately 50 yards of worsted (Level 4) weight yarn
Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn Needle

SIZE: 33″ long by 2.5″ wide

STITCHES USED:

Chain (CH)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

The scarf is 33 inches long and will stretch when worn. To make it longer or shorter, change the starting chain by adding or subtracting 5 chains (always an odd number). To make it wider, continue adding rows past row 5 (knowing it will increase the length as well).
The DC’s of each row after R1 are worked in the CH spaces of the previous row.
The CH 4 at the start of each row counts as 1 DC and 1 CH.
Each row is increased by 6 stitches. There are 3 extra stitches on each end. The first increase is made by chaining 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 CH) and working a DC in the first DC from the previous row, then chaining 1 and working a DC in the next chain space. The other end is increased by working a *DC, CH, DC* into the 3rd chain of the turning CH 4.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using your 6 mm hook, CH 111.

Row 1: DC in 5^th CH from the hook. *CH 1, skip the next CH, DC*. Repeat from * to * to end of chain, making sure you end with a DC in the last CH.

Row 2: CH 4, DC in the 1st DC, CH, DC in the CH space directly next to the 1st DC from the previous row. *CH, DC in next CH space*. Repeat from * to * across until you reach the starting CH 4. DC in the space made by the starting CH 4, CH, *DC, CH, DC* in the 3^rd CH of starting CH 4.

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 for 5 total rows. Cut and weave in ends.

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE MUG COZY PATTERN

I’ll admit, I’m an iced coffee every morning kind of girl- but in the evenings you can find me with a mug of hot tea more often than not! I love these little coordinating mug cozies because not only are they cute, but they’re also functional- no one wants to burn their hands on a hot mug! These use just a bit of yarn and whichever cute buttons you have on hand. They’d made great gifts or craft fair items. That is, after you’ve made a couple for yourself!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

Worsted (Level 4) weight yarn
Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Two .5″ buttons

SIZE: 10″ by 3.5″

STITCHES USED:

Chain (CH)

Single Crochet (SC)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

The CH 4 at the beginning of Row 3 and each repeat counts as 1 DC and 1 CH.
Pattern as written fits a large mug, about 5″ tall and a 3.5″ diameter. For a taller mug, add to starting chain in multiples of 2 (always an odd number). For a thicker mug, continue repeating Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 3.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using your 6mm hook and worsted yarn, CH 15.

Row 1: DC in 5^th CH from the hook. *CH, SK, DC in next CH*. Repeat to end. (7 DC, including starting CH 4)

Row 2: CH 1 (does not count as a ST). SC in each DC and CH space across, ending with a SC in the 3^rd CH of the starting CH 4. (13 SC)

Row 3: CH 4. Skip first 2 SC, DC in 3^rd SC. *CH, SK, DC* across, ending with a DC in the last SC. (13 ST, 7 DC)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for a total of 23 rows (ending on a Row 3).

Edge: CH 1, SC 4, CH 10, SC 5, CH 10, SC 4 (end of top edge).

CH 2, turn the corner, SC 2 in each DC row and SC 1 in each SC row. (35 SC)

CH 2, turn to the bottom edge, SC across. (13 SC)

CH 2, turn to last side, repeat SC pattern from 2nd side. (35 SC)

CH 2, slip stitch to the 1^st SC of the top edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Sew two buttons to the opposite side of the cozy from the CH 10 loops, spacing them so the buttons have 3 DC’s between them. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Thank you for your support (just by being here!), and I look forward to seeing your creations on Instagram- be sure to tag me @FebruarySkyDesigns and tag your pics with the hashtag #autumninlovepatterns!

The Inselberg Backpack Pattern

Posted on June 8, 2020 by February Sky Designs

I’m new to hiking, and one of the first things I realized I needed (besides bug spray!), was a bag to keep my hands free and hold the essentials. I didn’t want a full-size backpack, but it needed to be big enough for a water bottle and snacks. I figured I could make a bag that would check all the boxes, and that’s how the Inselberg backpack was created!

Having taken it out on the trails a few times now I can attest that it’s the perfect size to carry all the essentials, and the color possibilities are endless! Using Caron Cotton Cakes yarn and holding two strands together creates a durable and structured bag that’s still lightweight and won’t slow you down. Read on to see how to make your own Inselberg Backpack, and become the outdoorsy person you’ve always wanted to be! (And still have cute accessories.)

Inselberg Backpack Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Skip (SK)

-Stitch (ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Two Single Crochet (2SC)

Materials:

J/10 (6 mm) Crochet Hook
I/9 (5.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Two skeins worsted weight level 4 yarn, 100% cotton or a cotton/acrylic blend, about 300 yards each. (Different colors are optional. Pictured is Caron Cotton Cakes in Silver Cloud and Fruit Tropical.)

Notes:

The Inselberg Backpack is made by holding two strands of yarn together simultaneously to create a stronger structure.
The rounds are joined by an invisible slip stitch and each round is started with a chainless single crochet, which counts as one SC. If you’re not familiar with these techniques you can see a more detailed tutorial here or use a standard slip stitch and chain 1 at the beginning of each row, which will not count as a stitch.
The chart below shows how to make the bag base. The instructions are also written out in the pattern directions with accompanying photos. The body of the bag is made in joined rows without any increases.
The oval base can be thought of as two half circles on either end of a rectangle. The middle of the rectangle will always be 11 SC’s, which is why they are written out separately in the pattern instructions to help keep track of where the increases go.
The colors of the bag are entirely up to you! I joined the Fruit Tropical yarn a couple rows above the base and then re-joined the Silver Cloud yarn at the top, but your version can be whatever you’d like!

Techniques used:

-Invisible Slip Stitch – Photo Instructions here.

-Chainless SC – Photo Instructions here.

-Crochet I-cord – Instructions by Yarnspirations

-Thermal Stitch – Youtube video by Sewrella

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Base:

CH 14.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in the next 11 CH’s. 3SC in final CH. Turn, SC in the bottom CH strand of the next 11 CH’s. 2SC in last CH. Join to 1st SC of round with an invisible SL ST (see notes). (28 ST)

R2: 2SC, SC 11, 2SC in the next 3 ST, SC 11, 2SC in the next 2 ST, join. (34 ST)

R3: 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, join. (40 ST)

R4: SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, join. (46 ST)

R5: 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, join. (52 ST)

R6: SC 3, 2 SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, join. (58 ST)

R7: SC, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 4, join. (64 ST)

R8: SC 5, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 1, join. (70 ST)

Body:

R9-41: SC around. (70 ST)

R42: SC 3, CH 1, SK 1, *SC 6, CH 1, SK 1*, repeat from * to * 6 times, SC 3, join. (70 ST)

R43: SC around in all SC’s and CH spaces. (70 ST)

R44: SC around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (70 ST)

I-cord:

Using 1 strand of yarn and a I/9 5.5mm hook, create an iCord that is 42 inches long. See Techniques for tutorial link.

Weave the I-cord through the CH spaces you made in Round 42, making the ends stick out of the front two holes so you can cinch the bag closed.

If you’d like to make a loop for hanging the bag, make another I-cord that is 6 inches long and attach it to the top back center of the bag body, just below the cinch cord.

STRAPS:

For Thermal Stitch tutorial, see link in Techniques section.

CH 7.

SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (6 ST).

CH 1, turn. SC thermal stitch until strap measures 30 inches (adjust to preference, as it will stretch a bit when used).

Make 2. Attach each strap to the top center of the back under the cord and on either side of the bottom just above the base oval (see photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 11”/28 cm

Height: 11”/28 cm from top of bag to start of base, 14”/36 cm from top of bag to center of base.

I hope you’ll make your own Inselberg backpack to take on all your outdoor activities this summer! If you do, be sure to tag me on Instagram so I can share your work! Happy hiking!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

Posted on December 4, 2019 by February Sky Designs

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

If you’re looking for a full-size version of this pattern (for a tree that’s 5-9 feet), then you’re in luck! I’ve created the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern for big trees, and you can find the free pattern here! I’ve also created the Bauble Tree Skirt Collection that combines both the Mini and Big Bauble patterns in one beautifully formatted, low cost PDF, found on my Etsy here!

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

For the ad-free PDF version of this pattern (which also includes the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern!) click here.

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-About 160 yards of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn

-Size P-15 (12 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When an instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).
The full-size version of this pattern, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, can be found here!

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2^nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*. Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

The Braeburn Beanie

Posted on October 4, 2019 by February Sky Designs

There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.

I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Slip Stitch (SL ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)

-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)

Special Stitches:

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch

–Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Note:

A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).

Materials:

-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy

-Size I/9 5.5mm Crochet Hook

-Stitch Markers (optional)

-Sewing Needle

-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)

Final Measurments: 8.5”/22cm wide, 9.5”/24cm tall, 18”/46cm circumference

Pattern:

Beanie Band:

CH 11.

R1: HDC in 2^nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)

R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).

Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 42 rows.

SL ST band edges together.

Beanie Body:

R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (62 SC with a 42 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.

R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, with the last HDCV in the 2nd to last SC. SK last SC and SL ST to the chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV from the previous row. SL ST to the 1st chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

Repeat R3 for 18 rows of HDCV stitches total. (Add a couple more rows for a slouchier beanie or less for a shorter beanie.)

R19: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R20: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R21: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R22: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.

Pull up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s, pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.

That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!

February Sky Designs

Modern crochet patterns and products.

Tag Archives: free crochet patterns

The Simon Square Baby Blanket

The Cozy Crochet Cat Bed

The Golden Hour Pumpkins

The Cody Corner to Corner Blanket

Golden Hour Throw Blanket

The Big Bauble Tree Skirt

The Autumn In Love Trio

The Inselberg Backpack Pattern

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The Braeburn Beanie

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