I am so excited to introduce the Pisces Shawl! Get the crochet pattern now on my Etsy!
This pattern joins my February Sky Scarf in my February patterns, and this one has a very special place in my heart. It’s my first shawl pattern, and I knew I had to make it perfect- drapey, detailed, and a long triangle shape that works as a wrap or as a cozy scarf. This hits all the marks!
This shawl uses a few different techniques, like double crocheting clusters and triple crocheting into the front post of the previous row. But don’t let that put you off- this pattern is advanced-beginner friendly, and I wrote the row repeats so that once you get a few rows done and understand the repetitions you’ll be able to breeze through this project.
If you are used to only working with worsted weight yarn, this is a great project to try DK weight! It’s a little lighter, but you can still use a larger hook so the shawl has tons of drape and works up quickly. I made two shawls, one in Malabrigo Arroyo yarn (pictured above in “Reflecting Pool” and “Anniversario”) and one using Lion Brand Mandala in Warlock (below).
The pattern is available on my Etsy. I hope you’ll try this pattern! When you do, be sure to tag me on instagram @februaryskydesigns and use the hashtag #piscesshawl!
The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!
This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).
If you’re looking for a full-size version of this pattern (for a tree that’s 5-9 feet), then you’re in luck! I’ve created the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern for big trees, and you can find the free pattern here! I’ve also created the Bauble Tree Skirt Collection that combines both the Mini and Big Bauble patterns in one beautifully formatted, low cost PDF, found on my Etsy here!
I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.
Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.
The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!
After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.
Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.
The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern
For the ad-free PDF version of this pattern (which also includes the Big Bauble Tree Skirt pattern!) click here.
Stitch abbreviations:
-Stitch (ST)
-Chain (CH)
-Single Crochet (SC)
Materials:
-About 160 yards of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn
-Size P-15 (12 mm) crochet hook
Final measurements:
19 in./48 cm. in diameter
Special Stitch:
Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.
Notes:
When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When an instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).
The full-size version of this pattern, the Big Bauble Tree Skirt, can be found here!
Pattern:
Chain 7.
Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)
Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)
If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!
Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.
I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.
Let’s get to the pattern!
The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern
Stitch abbreviations:
-Chain (CH)
-Slip Stitch (SL ST)
-Single Crochet (SC)
-Half Double Crochet (HDC)
– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)
-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)
Special Stitches:
– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch
–Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.
Note:
A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).
Materials:
-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy
-Size I/9 5.5mm Crochet Hook
-Stitch Markers (optional)
-Sewing Needle
-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)
Final Measurments: 8.5”/22cm wide, 9.5”/24cm tall, 18”/46cm circumference
Pattern:
Beanie Band:
CH 11.
R1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)
R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).
Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 42 rows.
SL ST band edges together.
Beanie
Body:
R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (62 SC with a 42 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.
R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, with the last HDCV in the 2nd to last SC. SK last SC and SL ST to the chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)
R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV from the previous row. SL ST to the 1st chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)
Repeat R3 for 18 rows of HDCV stitches total. (Add a couple more rows for a slouchier beanie or less for a shorter beanie.)
R19: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.
R20: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.
R21: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.
R22: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.
Pull
up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s,
pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.
That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.
Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern
Stitch abbreviations:
-Chain (CH)
-Single Crochet (SC)
-Double Crochet (DC)
Materials:
2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
Stitch markers
Scissors
Measuring tape or ruler
Special Notes:
Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.
Pattern:
Base
Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.
Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).
R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).
R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.
R19: At the
end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side
edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the
next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your
starting CH was begun. (16 SC)
R20: CH 1, rotate
rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)
R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.
Invisible Slip Stitch:
Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.Invisible slip stitch is complete.
Chainless Single Crochet:
Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.
R22:
Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC
around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st
chainless SC.
R23-24: Repeat
R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.
Body
R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).
Chainless Double Crochet:
Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.Invisible slip stitch.Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.
Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.
R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.
R27-R44: Repeat
R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.
R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.
Strap
Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.
R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.
R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.
Final measurements:
Base: 12 x 5.5 in.
Body: 15 x 15 in.
Strap: 55 in.
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.
You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.
If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.
The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!
The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.
The February Sky Scarf
Materials
2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
Size N hook
Large Eye Thread Needle
Abbreviations:
Chain (CH)
Skip (SK)
Single Crochet (SC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)
Special Stitches:
Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.
Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.
NOTES
The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The scarf can also be made with bulky weight yarn instead.
The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.
PATTERN:
Infinity Scarf:
CH 18.
Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)
Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)
Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).
Cowl:
CH 30.
Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)
Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)
Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.
I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
I got a text from one of my good friends showing me the beautiful mountain mural she’d put up in the nursery for the baby boy she’s expecting in a couple months. She lives far from me and I knew I wanted to send her a baby care package that included a crochet blanket using the colors in the mural. After browsing through some baby blanket patterns on Pinterest I had an idea- what if I not only incorporated the colors of the mural into the blanket, but the design as well? And so, the Move Mountains baby blanket was born!
“Kid, you’ll move mountains!”- Dr. SeussThis is the picture she sent me of the nursery! Mountain decal purchased from PearlWall’s Etsy shop.
I had never made a blanket like this before and knew I’d need a visual to keep track of when I should be adding my colors. I used the website Stitch Fiddle to design a template for my blanket, and after a lot of trial and error this was what I came up with:
The blanket is worked entirely in single crochet and is 60 stitches across by 70 rows tall. The finished blanket came out to 36 inches by 32 inches using super bulky yarn and a size P hook.
The trickiest part of the blanket is knowing how to do the color changes correctly. Once you count your stitches and know where you’re supposed to be starting a new color you begin your single crochet in the stitch before the first stitch of the new color, and instead of finishing the single crochet with the first color you pull in the new color to finish it. Then you single crochet with the new color in the next stitch, which is your first stitch of the new color.
Here I was finishing with the light gray yarn and before completing my SC I would pull up the navy blue yarn to finish it and then continue on with the blue yarn, leaving the light gray strand until I came back to it in the next row.
By increasing or decreasing one stitch of a color, depending on where you are in the pattern, your colors will move up and down diagonally and create the mountain slopes.
If you want to cut back on the number of ends you need to weave in, like I always try to do, you’ll be working with multiple balls of yarn at once, picking them up and dropping them as you move across the rows.
Row 1: Using
Color A (dark gray), SC in the 2nd stitch from the hook and continue
across. 60 SC.
R2-10: CH 1 (does not count as SC), turn. SC across.
R11: CH 1, turn. SC across until there are two stitches from the end. Join Color B (navy blue) in SC 59 and do one SC of Color B in SC 60.
R12: CH 1, turn. SC with Color B in first stitch. Start the SC in the second stitch and pick up Color A yarn to finish. SC across with Color A.
R13: CH 1, turn. SC with Color A across until the
4th stitch from the end (SC 57). Pick up Color B and SC to end.
R14: CH 1, turn. SC with Color B for three stitches. Start 4th SC and join Color A. SC across with Color A for 18 stitches. Join a second skein of Color B for one SC. Don’t finish the SC of Color B, but add a second skein of Color A and SC across to the second to last stitch. Join the 3rd skein of Color B and SC the last stitch.
R15-23: CH 1, turn. Continue to SC with Colors A and B, increasing Color B and decreasing Color A one SC on each side of the mountain peaks with each row.
R24: CH 1, turn. SC across, dropping 2nd Color B skein and continuing with 1st skein until Color A change.
R25-31: CH 1, turn. Continue decreasing
Color A.
R32-36: CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B.
R37: CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B for 15
stitches. Join with Color C (light gray) for one SC, join 2nd ball
of Color B, SC across to SC 49, join 2nd skein of Color C, SC one
and join 3rd skein of Color B. SC with Color B until second to last
stitch, join 3rd skein of Color C, SC one.
R38-53: CH 1, turn. SC across, decreasing Color B by one on each side of the mountain peaks until they all reach their tops.
R54-70: CH 1, turn. SC across with Color C.
Note: Be sure to consult the stitch chart for help with color changes and row numbers!
I’ll be mailing the blanket this week, along with a onesie I found with little mountains on it (gotta love a theme!). I love how this blanket came out and I can’t wait to see pictures of it in the nursery and especially with her little boy!
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it. You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
***This post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.
This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.
The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.
The pattern below is for the baby blanket size, 30 by 35 inches. You can purchase a low-cost, ad-free PDF that contains full color diagrams and instructions on how to adjust this pattern for different blanket sizes on my Etsy.
Materials
Two colors of super bulky (level 6) yarn. For the baby blanket size (instructions provided for this size), you’ll use about 648 yards total, 324 of each color. I used 4 balls each (8 total) of Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn. Pictured is Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock.
Size N hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitches Used
Chain (CH)
Single Crochet (SC)
Skip (SK)
Notes
The finished blanket baby blanket is 35 inches long by 30 inches wide (without the tassels) and starts with 8 rows of Color A. For more size options, check out the PDF pattern on my Etsy.
Baby Blanket Size
Pattern:
Starting with Color A, CH 76
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from the hook, *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat * to * until end.
Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST from the previous row. SC in the next CH space. *CH, SK, SC in the chain space from previous row*. Repeat * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST. *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
Rows 4-8: Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 8 rows.
Row 9: Using Color B, CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3. 1 row.
Rows 10-16: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 7 rows.
Rows 17-18: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
Rows 19-24: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
Rows 25-27: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 3 rows.
Rows 28-32: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 5 rows.
Rows 33-36: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
Rows 37-40: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
Rows 41-45: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 5 rows.
Rows 46-48: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 3 rows.
Rows 49-54: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
Row 55-56: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
Rows 57-63:Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 7 rows.
Row 64: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2. 1 row.
Rows 65-72:Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 8 rows.
Tie off and weave in ends!
Stroller blanket size (26 by 28 in.)
To make the tassels:
You’ll create 12 tassels, 6 of each color, and attach them to the ends of the blanket. Use Color A tassels on the Color B end and vice versa.
Step 1: Cut 12 16″ lengths of each color, 24 total.
Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap yarn around 12 times.
Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple surgeons’ knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.
Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16″ length, tie a few surgeons’knots about 1.5″ from the top.
Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and repeat 11 more times.
Step 6: Tie the tassels to the edges of the blanket, spaced evenly about 5 inches apart. Use a sewing needle to pull the loose ends through the tops of the tassels so they’re more secure.
I’d love to see the colors you use for your own Two-Toned Tassel blanket! Make sure to tag me on Instagram and share the crochet love.
This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!
February Sky Designs 